Monday, January 19

Turkey 2002

While their economies have been devalued and emerging markets for inflation, the average Turk hoists the red flag with white crescent and star with pride. The average Turk is Westernized, the country could play a greater role in Europe but also Asia and Islamic embraces its past and present. In short, Turkey is a place of contrasts. Within Europe and Asia from west to east, Istanbul was our point of entry into this country, which is larger than France and Germany combined.On to our hotel - the first of the ten that we remain more than two weeks - we have seen children, the pride of the movement at the crossroads and traffic lights, trying to sell roses for motorists. It was already midnight. Children are not more than 6 or 7 years. There were no parents or other "guide" for adults to see. I shuddered at this, see these girls without fear approaching cars, the thoughts of the two Soham girls who disappeared (and subsequently murdered) come to mind.
Day 2 - Monday - Istanbul

The day began with a presentation on the terrace of the Ottoman Empire hotel (there are hundreds of hotels here are of the same name). Explore our guide named Neil, and he made the same tour for about three months. With any luck, he would have already acquired the essential knowledge that you can touch, as if it is not for the exchange of money, what scams to search premises and what infusion is recommended (OK, the pure me, and for the recording, local beer seems to be ... Tuborg. Danish lager. Brewed in Istanbul)

The view from the terrace is right on Marmaris, and further east, I saw clearly that the plan of the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii). This was our first destination of the morning with a stroll through the not-yet-all bustling streets of downtown Istanbul.

We learned during the briefing on the pilot of Turkey, also of the adventurous nature. While sidewalks are the domain of pedestrians (unless you have to negotiate around the cardboard boxes, or wells located in stairwells surprising soil), the roads are for cars and cars only. Forget pedestrians - the cars have the right of way. Well, strictly speaking, but believe me when I say that you are unable to carry on this one.

Neil told us that they believe in "Kismet and Kadur - Luck and destiny. As he said:" If you miss a single car, it's luck. When you hit and injured (or worse) It was predestined. " We took those words in mind at every crossroads.

We had a tour of the old city of Istanbul (Constantinople or old). It's a damned are, in fact. There is no running, it was! From Constantine to the Tour, and the passage of an Egyptian obelisk of the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, we have warm feet in the Blue Mosque. Our guide, Sergun, left us little time to take pictures.

The Blue Mosque, strangely enough, is gray. So why the name, I wondered, and the answer is inside. After removing the shoes and covered by a clairvoyant in particular areas of the skin, our group has been at the mosque in the Islamic incredible Iznik tiles decorated with work, mainly shades of blue.

There is freedom of religion in the secular republic that Turkey, but 98% Muslim by choice. There is a minority who want a strict Islamic state with the introduction of sharia law - which was so popular in the old Afghanistan, as you recall in May - but they are very pleased with the minority here. And even if there are calls to prayer five times a day, not once, I do not see anyone actually answer this prayer, wherever they are in May Apparently, Friday is the most important day of your ablutions (again, we have seen no evidence of that during the holidays). Nevertheless, at the mosque ... (mospagebreak)

One reason why the device is so graceful as images and symbols are not allowed - probably something to do with the worship of false gods. Arabic calligraphy is incredibly artistic. I have no idea what he said, but I think it is anyway.

After the photo requirement, we have our backs and shoes in plastic bags provided. It was a little wind, and saw a bag and take a gale blowing in the mosque, Tumbleweed style, on the mats. I plunged back in to try to catch my good deed for the day. But I realized quite quickly that I made a mistake, because I want all my shoes and is now again desecrated this place of worship. As I grabbed the bag, I heard a beat of the mosque participants, shouting something in my general direction. Oops. Well, I tried to do a good thing!

Directly opposite the Blue Mosque in Istanbul is one of the famous landmark, the Aya Sofia. Unlike other mosques in the city began life as a church, but it was converted. In the Christian scene is large medallions with Arabic calligraphy. We did not get to see this first hand (in this case), if we spent the direction of the Topkapi Palace.

Topkapi includes a number of different types of buildings within the walls, and all were described in detail by our guide. Kitchens are one of the first stops on the route where, instead of feeding the five thousand, when they work at full capacity during the celebration of Ramadan, they took charge of 15,000 of the poor and needy. Already, it has been used to show a large collection of Chinese ceramics.

The Gate of Felicity, we have seen cases where the primary restoration is applied to part of the flower, but to wait for the gold leaf (or gold paint, which is all the more likely Turkey higher inflation).

Than in the past received the hall of the Sultan, we remain the Tulip Room (I think it is), or rather, we were waiting outside and on the Bosphorus Sea, where the number of tankers being about their business. It was very vague, but our guide pointed out in various places of the distance for us, including the Maiden's Tower.

Baghdad came next to the flag - a very elegant and very small room (one could almost say a folly). Islamic tile was beautiful, and there was a guide on standby to ensure that no one decides to take all the memories.

The private sector, the Chamber of holy relics, we saw several swords belonging to the former caliphs, ladies and mosques as models of the Medina and other precious relics which are important for Muslims. In a room which was full (with people, not the relics), was a man Saturday in a corner booth in the pages of the Quran recitation on the loudspeaker. It is very melodic, if you make this kind of thing. I tried to film the scene with my camera, but was told first by a woman who told me that I can not film it and to confiscate the film. Then I got this explanation by the guard who began wild gesticulating in the general direction of myself and a Muslim woman, with the camera (and camera) was a little more discreet than mine. Fortunately, I did not catch the film.

So that was my second faux pas in a day. What can I do to dishonest to the Islamic world? Well, they say these things come in threes, then maybe another is just around the corner, who knows? In my defense should I ever find myself in an Islamic court to defend myself, the signs have a 35 mm camera with a red slash through it that I want to say "No flash photography. No symbol of" No camcorders. Well, roll over the number three ...

We had lunch at the Pudding Shop in the district Sultanhamet. The shop is there for years and is reputed to be one of the main points of the hippie trail across Asia - a good place for good food for the discovery of food waiting for you in India and so on. Despite the title, it does sell products - this is not really a place to get filled on Angel Delight.

Then, Manda, Robert and myself - one of the Aussies - was a walk back to the Aya Sofia for some more pictures (the last stage was a little short). More photos, we return to the Grand Bazaar, with a detour to a bank for money (that the author did not understand my pigeon Turkish and refuge for the little he knew that English).

The Grand Bazaar is not for nothing. It is enormous. Each itinerary takes you off the routes that are more off-side roads. It is quite a maze. There are streets / courses / channels (not sure how best to describe them) who have specialized areas, such as leather or gold track path. Overall, however, you see things quite the same. And outside of any trader is to try to assess which country you are and how best to bring you the best that I heard was simple: "You're looking for me - I need money. You can help me! "We do not. Instead, we have a tea shop and helped us apple tea and Turkish. Point to remember - try the apple tea before sugar in You May not need this extra sweetness!

Then we tried our bearings in the labyrinth at the head of the direction of north in the direction of the Süleymaniye Mosque. It is the largest mosques in Istanbul, but apparently not the easiest to find. Despite this enormous minarets, it is very difficult to recognize you on the street level. It is clear from a distance, but when you just beside it, you can walk around and not know. Believe me, it is quite possible. We almost just that! 1 hour after the search of the mosque, and very exhausted by the heat of the afternoon, we finally arrived just in time for the call to prayer 5pm.

When the call to prayer is done, the whole city seems to buzz. From here on the hilltop overlooking the Golden Horn, you can hear the din General distance than any other minarets of the city filled with tears for the return of the Koran. Some in May compared with the sound of a cat strangled, but if you take a break prejudices Westernized and just listen to the voice you hear often pitch-perfect - it's just a musical scale that is different from what we used are.

We then received a bus or - Taksi - back to the hotel. Fortunately, we had a map of the location of the hotel. Therefore, it is easier for the driver, and just to make sure it does not attempt to give us on a journey around the city - hell, we are almost ready, that our feet - I have a open card to appear as if I was the control of its route with the desired route. The truth was, I had no idea. He did not know already! We have not pulled out. Result!

We finished the day with a meal at a place called The Olympiat. The fish in the district of the city known as Kumkapı and our meals were an important part of that. I chose a Bluefish (lufer), Manda has seabass. I even braved the anchovies that were provided as part ... And it was delicious, to my surprise (I had always regarded as "Stinky things that ruin a very good pizza).

We were also joined by a group of cats that seems to want a little fish and a group of musicians played traditional Turkish songs (including the recent Turkish hit "Kiss Kiss" Holly Valance, which was covered with Yes . It was a song first Turkish people). The cats have been released with a piece of fish (or push / kick / what), musicians with advice. They were all right.

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