Bozcaada is an island on the Aegean Sea, near the western exit of Dardanelles in Turkey. Its ancient name is Tenedos. Bozcaada is located 12 miles from the Çanakkale Strait and extends over an area of around 40 square kilometers, roughly in the shape of a triangle one edge of which is parallel to mainland coast.

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Overview of Bozcaada

Bozcaada is located 12 miles from the Çanakkale Strait and extends over an area of around 40 square kilometers, roughly in the shape of a triangle one edge of which is parallel to mainland coast. The islanders make their living from viticulture, fishing and tourism.

The sole town of the island—home to about 2,000 people—lies on its northeastern corner, facing the mainland. The rest of the island is covered by vineyards, scattered pine woods, and Mediterranean shrubland (maquis), dotted by the occasional vineyard manor and, close to the coastline, housing estates used by mainland Turks as vacation homes.

Getting to Bozcaada By bus

Regular buses run from most major cities to Çanakkale. From Çanakkale there are frequent Bus connection to Geyikli Yukyeri Port where the ferryboats connect Bozcaada with the mainland. There are also some buses from Istanbul directly to Geyikli Yukyeri Port ("Truva" and "Metro" bus companies).

There is a bus company office located in one of the small shops at the town square. You can buy your ticket for Istanbul (or somewhere else on the way) for a bus departing from Geyikli in the mainland. Your bus will be waiting for you just outside the harbour in Geyikli. Don’t forget to catch the corresponding ferry back to the mainland (bus hours are usually in accordance with the ferry hours, they depart usually about 30 minutes after the departure of the ferry from island quay), they may wait for the next ferry or not! (more likely, not)

Getting to Bozcaada By car

From Istanbul — Get to Çanakkale first by following the route west from the city via Tekirdağ, Keşan, Gelibolu, and Eceabat. Take the ferry at Eceabat to cross the Strait to Asia. After passing the Strait into Çanakkale in Asia, take the road (D550/E87) south to Izmir. About 30 km away from Canakkale (and only a few km after you left the junction for the road to Troy behind), you’ll arrive at the junction which the access road to Geyikli harbour forks (there are also ‘Bozcaada’ signs on that junction). This route is about 400 km in total. Those who’d like to drive less may take fast ferries from Istanbul to Bandirma on the southern shore of Marmara. Bandirma to Geyikli is abut 210 km in total.

From Izmir — Take the route north (D550/E87) to Çanakkale, and turn left (to direction signposted as ‘Geyikli’/’Bozcaada’ there) in Ezine, about 50 km south of Çanakkale.

Getting to Bozcaada: By boat

In summer of 2009, passenger-only fast ferry (deniz otobüsü) service to Bozcaada direct from Çanakkale started. However, the only mainland location with a ferry connection which can accommodate cars to Bozcaada is still Geyikli, located on the western (Aegean) shore of Troad (Biga) Peninsula, south of Çanakkale.

Ferryboat Schedule from Geyikli to Bozcaada (there are often changes on the schedule, so it advisable to check): www.bozcaada.info

A return ticket (they don’t sell any one-way) for the ferry between Geyikli and Bozcaada costs 4 TL per person without a car (no student discounts). There is a ticket check only once when boarding the ferry in the mainland, after this, the ticket is practically worthless, since it is not checked again (for example when boarding to return to the mainland in Bozcaada).

Getting Around Bozcaada

There are frequent minibuses heading for Ayazma and Habbele beaches. Their departure is in the square right next to the entrance of the castle. A one-way ride costs 2 TL per person (no student discounts available) and takes about 15 minutes. There is also a minibus service once every day (at sunset time) to Cape Polente, the westernmost point of the island and where the electricity-generating wind turbines are located.

Although they are well-paved in most sections, most of the roads on the island are narrow. Nevertheless, there is little traffic anyway, so it is no problem that they are narrow.

The town itself is really small — you can walk from one edge of it to another in approximately ten minutes.

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Bozcaada Sights

•  Castle. The castle, surrounded by sea at one side and by a nowadays-dry (or marshy at best) moat at the others, served for Byzantines, Venetians and Genoans, although there is no evidence indicating who exactly built the castle. Still maintaining its glory, this is one of the castles that are in best condition in Turkey. Entrance fee: 5 TL (3 TL for students).

• Streets. The old cobbled streets and districts in the center of the town maintain their traditional architecture.

• Beaches. Although you can swim even in the small harbor, the beaches are located on the southern part of the island, namely Ayazma and Habbele where you can find some beach cafes around. Renting two deckchairs and a beach umbrella for half a day in Ayazma beach costs 5 TL. The fee is collected twice a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon by employees walking around the deckchairs one by one (not at the entrance). You can of course swim and sunbathe free of charge in nearby areas which are out of the beach club property.

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Bozcaada Money and Shopping

There are two ATM's in town and they do accept foreign VISA cards. One is located at the main square and other on the exterior wall of Ziraat Bankası in the town square.

As of summer 2006, there was only one supermarket in the island (located at one of the cobblestone streets, past one of the wine shops, leading to the town square). There you can find anything you may need as a casual traveller. Despite its monopolistic situation, the prices were at about the same level as the mainland.

• Locally produced wine and natural Red Poppy Syrup www.bozcaada.info

• Tomato jam – This delicious jam can be only found on the island in Turkey. It can be obtained from the shop with a big “Salto” sign on the town square, or from the only supermarket of the town (it did cost 7 TL in summer 2006, there are also other locally produced jams being sold at both stores), or from villager stalls (same price).

Books

Locally available books that are worth a look are:

• Kalaafiyet The book of Bozcaada recipes. A list of 100 recipes and Aegean food, island food and also island life.


• Anayurt (Mother Land) by Dimitri Kakmioglu. This is a memoir about an island childhood set in the late 1960s. Available in Turkish and English.

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Eating in Bozcaada

Definitely fish restaurants. A fish, some green salad, and a glass of raki did cost about 20 TL per person in summer 2006. You can see the prices for different kinds of fish on the boards in front of many restaurants. Keep in mind that almost all restaurants in the town gets really crowded between 8PM and 10PM and it is almost impossible to find a seat between these hours unless you either, be seated before 8PM or after 10PM, or better yet, reserve a seat during the day.

• Marti Restaurant, (behind the castle), ☎ +90 286 697 88 95 (info@martirestaurant.com.tr), www.martirestaurant.com.tr. Fish and other local tastes. From 30 TL/person.

• There is also a cheaper (did cost about 15 TL for a filling meal for two persons in summer 2006) outdoor restaurant in the first street to the left (when walking from the harbour) which serves traditional Turkish cuisine. You can recognise it by its checked tableclothes.

• Ucmuz Ada. Restaurant serving delicious meals as well as great chocolate soufflé—this is the only place on the island serving that dessert.


• Maya, American Cesme Mevkii, Kume Evleri (Its about 50 meters from American Fountain), ☎ (0286)697-80-50, www.mayabozcaada.com. 8 a.m to 11 p.m.. This is small restaurant serving daily home made dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The owner is the chef and he prepares everything daily; freshly baked breads and treats, home made cheeses and jams and wines. Reservations are a must as its small but worth the experience! Moderate.

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Drinking in Bozcaada: Local drinks

• Wine - this is a wine-land where they imprinted a bunch of grapes on their coins thousands of years ago! The local wine producers are Corvus www.corvus.com.tr, Yunatçılar Camlibag www.camlibag.com.tr, Talay, Ataol and Gülerada. There are various local grapes such as vasilaki (white), karalahna (red), kuntra (red), karasakiz (red).


• Red Poppy Syrup - a local specialty of Ada Cafe. adagelincik.blogspot.com

Drinking in Bozcaada: Bars

• Salhane Bar, (in the yellow building on the far edge of the cove enclosed by the citadel, town, and mountains), ☎ +90 286 697 01 27. Probably the most famous drinking establishment of the island. Also has some open air deckchair-like seats just on the edge of the sea, facing some scary looking rocks ascending suddenly from the sea. Quite lukewarm waiters. There are reports that Salhane is closed, though it is worth a check if it will re-open for 2010 summer.

• Fuska bar behind the castle has a lovely terrace by the sea. There are also other nice bars behind the castle.

• There are also some other bars located on the sides of the street leading to Salhane, too.

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Bozcaada Hotels and Accommodation

Average price in the hotels and pensions of the island is about 50 YTL (and upwards) per person per night. This price generally includes breakfast too. There is also a campsite near Habbele beach which should be much cheaper.

If you are given a chance to choose between a cheaper/non-air conditioned room and a more expensive/AC room, go for non-A/C one, as it is always windy in Bozcaada and you won’t need to use the air-conditioner. Why pay more for a useless A/C? It’s unlikely but even if you feel hot, you can simply wide open the window (except if you are staying in the street-level floor for obvious reasons) even if there is no mosquito screen installed, as mosquitoes cannot survive in this windy climate and theft from the hotel rooms (by entering through the window) is virtually unknown.

Be aware, it is almost impossible to find a room without booking beforehand in summer.

• Gümüş Hotel (on the first street to left when walking out of harbour), tel +90 286 697-82-52. Very clean rooms with air-con and en suite bathroom. Rooms offer a nice view of harbour, fish restaurants, and the castle. Booking is highly advised in summer. Double rooms: 50 YTL per person/night (Summer 2006). Breakfast included.

• Baghane Pension and Traditional Town Houses, www.bahane.biz. You can either rent traditional houses located in the Greek quarter of the island or just share a room in the farm house with large breakfast. Double rooms 110 YTL (summer 2008).

• Yelkenli Bed&Breakfast (Yelkenli Holiday House), Papazbahce Mevkii, Bozcaada (on the way left to Ayazma beach), ☎ +90-541-962-88-00, www.yelkenlibag.com. A cute and cozy vineyard house with 3 separate rooms, located at the (geographical) center of the island, a fair distance from town center. 150 TL per room.

Bozcaada Photo Gallery

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